Vitamin C is a skincare superstar, and for good reason: it’s loved for helping people achieve and maintain radiant, healthy-looking skin. A glowing complexion not only enhances your youthful appearance but also gives off a healthier look. With so many options out there, we've dedicated hours to testing various vitamin C products. But before you dive into stocking up, it’s important to know that vitamin C comes in different forms—just like other skincare ingredients (think retinoids!). Each type has unique benefits, and they penetrate the skin at different levels, much like hyaluronic acid.
Today, let’s focus on sodium ascorbyl phosphate. This specific type of vitamin C is known for being gentler and more stable than other forms, making it ideal for sensitive skin without sacrificing effectiveness. (After all, vitamin C is one of the most powerful topical ingredients for achieving a radiant complexion!)
We get that skincare can feel overwhelming, so we reached out to three board-certified dermatologists for their expert insights. They’ll break down everything you need to know about sodium ascorbyl phosphate: what it is, its skin benefits, potential side effects, how to use it effectively, and even recommend some of their favorite products in case you're ready to give this vitamin a try.
What is Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate?
In simple terms, sodium ascorbyl phosphate is a form of vitamin C, technically a salt, explains Carqueville. It’s less potent than the more widely known form, L-ascorbic acid. Think of L-ascorbic acid as lifting a 10-pound weight, while sodium ascorbyl phosphate is like lifting a 5-pound weight. It's gentler and less intense, yet still beneficial.
L-ascorbic acid is the bioactive form of vitamin C—meaning it’s the form that your skin can readily use. Sodium ascorbyl phosphate converts to ascorbic acid once it’s absorbed by the skin, and this conversion process makes it less potent but also much gentler.
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Type of Ingredient: Antioxidant
Key Benefits: Fights skin-damaging free radicals, stimulates collagen production, evens out skin tone, and provides antimicrobial properties.
Who Should Use It: Suitable for most skin types, as it’s a gentler form of vitamin C. While it’s generally well-tolerated, some people may still experience mild irritation.
Usage Frequency: Can be used once or twice daily. We recommend starting with a few applications per week, then gradually increasing to allow your skin to adjust.
Works Well With: Pairs well with other antioxidants like vitamin E and ferulic acid, as well as hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid.
Avoid Using With: Benzoyl peroxide (as it can oxidize vitamin C) and retinols, which require a different pH level. Farber suggests using these at different times of day if both are part of your routine.
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The Stability Advantage of Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Another major perk? Most vitamin C forms—especially L-ascorbic acid—are highly unstable and degrade easily when exposed to light or oxygen. (That’s why vitamin C products are often packaged in dark, opaque bottles.) But that’s not the case with sodium ascorbyl phosphate. It’s considered one of the more stable forms of vitamin C, as it’s light-, oxygen-, and water-stable. This stability makes it easier to incorporate into different products and means you don’t need to worry about it losing potency.
Benefits of Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate for Skin
Fights Free Radicals: As a powerful antioxidant, sodium ascorbyl phosphate works to combat UV damage by neutralizing free radicals that cause DNA damage and lead to signs of photoaging, says Farber. Sun exposure and pollution create free radicals, which can lead to dark spots, wrinkles, and sagging. Vitamin C fights these effects.
Boosts Collagen Production: This vitamin C form is also excellent for anti-aging, as it stimulates collagen production, which keeps skin firm and youthful. (Interestingly, ingesting vitamin C can also have this effect.)
Evens Skin Tone: Ideal for those dealing with hyperpigmentation or dark spots, sodium ascorbyl phosphate helps inhibit tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production, effectively reducing existing discoloration and preventing future spots.
Anti-Acne Properties: A 2011 study showed that sodium ascorbyl phosphate has antibacterial properties and is an effective acne treatment. It’s also less irritating than other forms, making it a great option for those prone to breakouts.
Potential Side Effects of Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Though it’s generally gentler than other forms of vitamin C, sodium ascorbyl phosphate is still an active ingredient. It’s well-tolerated for most people, but those with highly sensitive skin may experience mild irritation.
How to Use Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
To maximize benefits, choose serums containing sodium ascorbyl phosphate, as they typically have a higher concentration of the ingredient than lotions or creams. Apply it in the morning after cleansing and before moisturizing. This timing helps protect against free radicals from sun exposure and pollution throughout the day. Gohara suggests pairing it with other antioxidants, or layering another antioxidant serum on top. Remember to finish with a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 to complete your morning routine.
Recommended Products
In addition to containing 20 percent sodium ascorbyl phosphate, this product also includes magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, another highly stable form of vitamin C, according to Carqueville. It also features ascorbyl palmitate, yet another variant of the vitamin, along with a plant-based complex designed to further enhance skin tone evenness. Click here to buy EmerginC Forte C Serum.
Ole Henriksen was one of the pioneers in incorporating vitamin C into skincare. This powerful serum from his namesake line combines sodium ascorbyl phosphate with collagen for a potent anti-aging boost, aimed at addressing spots, wrinkles, and more.
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate takes center stage in this serum from a (very affordable) brand frequently recommended by dermatologists. It’s enhanced with hydrating glycerin and hyaluronic acid, giving it a moisturizing yet lightweight feel—everything we look for in a serum.
This serum blends sodium ascorbyl phosphate with two other antioxidant heavyweights: vitamin E and ferulic acid. These ingredients are designed to work together synergistically, while hyaluronic acid adds an extra boost of hydration.
FAQs
Is sodium ascorbyl phosphate beneficial for the skin?
Absolutely! It’s a form of vitamin C that Carqueville describes as one of the more stable versions, being light-, oxygen-, and water-stable.
Can sodium ascorbyl phosphate help fight acne?
Yes, sodium ascorbyl phosphate offers antioxidant properties and potential antimicrobial benefits that can assist with acne and help prevent breakouts.
How often should you use sodium ascorbyl phosphate?
Begin by applying it a few times a week and gradually increase to once or twice daily, depending on your skin's tolerance.
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II DISCLAIMER: Every skin is different, not everything works for everybody. I recommend you test the product before completely using any new product. II
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