Stearic acid—while it may not be a household name, it's likely already in at least one of the skincare products you use. There's no reason to be concerned about this ingredient. In fact, it's something of a unicorn in the skincare world because it's not only used for formulation purposes but also provides genuine benefits for your skin. That’s quite impressive, considering most skincare ingredients tend to fall into one of two categories: active ingredients that have a specific effect or inert ingredients used primarily for product formulation.
Stearic Acid
Type of Ingredient: Emollient, surfactant, and emulsifier.
Key Benefits: Softens and smooths the skin’s surface while supporting the skin barrier. It also functions as a surfactant but is primarily used as an emulsifier to thicken products and enhance their texture.
Who Should Use It: Stearic acid is highly tolerated and suitable for almost everyone, though it’s particularly beneficial for those with sensitive or dry skin.
When to Use It: Products containing stearic acid can be applied either in the morning or at night.
Compatible With: Works well with most ingredients, especially oils. It’s often combined with more irritating actives to help reduce their drying effects.
Avoid Using With: There are no specific ingredients that are incompatible with stearic acid.
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What Is Stearic Acid?
The term "stearic acid" might be a bit misleading, as it's not the same kind of acid as glycolic or salicylic acids that you might be familiar with. Stearic acid is a saturated, long-chain fatty acid naturally found in various animal and plant fats. It's worth noting that the stearic acid used in skincare products can also be synthetically produced. Essentially, you can think of it as a moisturizing fat; in fact, it’s a natural component of moisturizing ingredients you may already use, such as cocoa butter and shea butter.
Benefits of Stearic Acid for Skin
While stearic acid is often included in products for formulation purposes, it also offers several skincare benefits on its own.
Softens the skin: Moisturizing ingredients are generally classified into three categories: humectants, emollients, and occlusives. Stearic acid is an emollient, meaning it helps soften and smooth the skin. (Other common emollients include jojoba oil, ceramides, and squalane.) This is why it's commonly added to products for its moisturizing properties.
Strengthens the skin barrier: Stearic acid does more than just moisturize; it's a crucial component of the skin barrier—the outermost layer that locks in moisture and keeps irritants out. Think of the skin cells as bricks, with stearic acid (along with other fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides) acting as the mortar that holds them together, creating a smooth, crack-free surface. As a result, stearic acid can help fortify your skin barrier.
Reduces signs of aging: By reinforcing the skin barrier, stearic acid helps prevent water loss and can even reduce signs of aging.
Suitable for sensitive skin: Stearic acid is an excellent option for those with sensitive or irritated skin; it can also help alleviate the flaking and itchiness associated with psoriasis.
Cleanses the skin: Here's where stearic acid stands out. Unlike other emollients, it also functions as a surfactant—a cleansing agent—which is why it's found in many cleansers. It helps oil, water, and dirt bind together, making it easier to remove from the skin's surface.
Gentle on the skin's natural oils: Unlike other surfactants (like sulfates), stearic acid doesn't strip away your skin’s natural oils. Instead, it provides moisturizing benefits, making it ideal for those seeking a gentle cleanser that won’t further dry out or irritate already compromised skin.
Improves product application: Stearic acid is primarily used in skincare and cosmetic formulas as an emulsifier. Many cosmetic chemists use it to give products a more luxurious texture and ensure they apply evenly.
Stabilizes products: Stearic acid contributes to that smooth, silky texture we all love and helps stabilize formulations to prevent them from separating.
Side Effects of Stearic Acid
All the experts agree that stearic acid is a safe ingredient, generally well-tolerated by all skin types. However, like any ingredient, there’s always the possibility of an allergic reaction or sensitivity.
How to Use It
Despite its many benefits, stearic acid isn't an ingredient you need to actively seek out. It’s primarily used for formulation purposes, with the added skincare benefits being a bonus. As mentioned, it’s a natural component of ingredients like cocoa butter and shea butter, which you’re likely already using. If you do want to find it specifically, look for it in creams, lotions, and face and body cleansers (thanks to its surfactant properties). It might appear in newer retinol oil formulations. Because stearic acid is a fatty acid, it blends well with other lipids (oils) and helps counteract the potential drying and irritating effects of retinol by strengthening the skin barrier.
The bottom line: You don’t need to search for stearic acid—it’s probably already in some of the skincare products you use. And that’s something to feel good about, not worry about.
Recommended products
Youth to the People Adaptogen Deep Moisture Cream. This deeply hydrating moisturizer is fragrance-free and formulated with everything from stearic acid to squalane and jojoba.
SkinCeuticals A.G.E. Eye Complex. This cult-followed eye cream works to improve the appearance of dark circles, puffiness, and crow’s feet associated with the natural aging process. It's a silky formulation, so it's great for the delicate eye area, and a host of optical diffusers perk eyes right up upon application.
Glossier Priming Moisturizer Rich. Rich in ceramides and fatty acids, this moisturizer blends shea and murumuru butters for a final product that reinforce skin’s moisture barrier and lock in moisture over time. Even better, the formulation melts right into skin for a flawless finish.
Elemis Ultra Smart Pro-Collagen Night Genius. This overnight cream is a powerful anti-wrinkle moisturizer, leaving skin feeling refreshed and stronger by morning.
FAQs
Is stearic acid safe for sensitive skin?
Yes, stearic acid is a great option for those with sensitive or irritated skin. It has even been shown to help alleviate flaking and itchiness associated with psoriasis.
Can stearic acid be used on dry skin?
Definitely. As an emollient, stearic acid works by softening and smoothing the skin, making it ideal for dry skin.
Does stearic acid benefit acne-prone skin?
Yes, stearic acid is particularly beneficial for acne-prone skin. It acts as a surfactant, helping to cleanse the skin without stripping away its natural oils, making it an excellent choice for those prone to breakouts.
Kaye's Beauty Book is here to help you choose better products that suit your skin, hair and lifestyle. All of the products mentioned are carefully researched and selected to ensure that the most credible information comes to you. If you do buy a product from one of our links, Kaye's Beauty Book may earn a commission.
II DISCLAIMER: Every skin is different, not everything works for everybody. I recommend you test the product before completely using any new product. II
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